Sangga Buwana as Food Acculturation: Yogyakarta Royal Traditional Food
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.25077/jantro.v23.n2.p212-221.2021Keywords:
Sangga buwana, Yogyakarta, Indonesia, traditional food, food acculturationAbstract
 Indonesia has various traditional foods, some of which are the result of acculturation with other countries’ foods. Sangga buwana is the Javanese-Dutch influenced cuisine, which became one of the favorite dishes of the sultans of Yogyakarta. Till date, the publication about sangga buwana is still limited. This paper aimed to introduce and spread the knowledge about sangga buwana as the result of food acculturation, focusing on its history, philosophy, how it is prepared, and its nutritional value. The study was carried out through interviews with the experts and literature review. Sangga buwana consists of several components, including choux pastry, ragout, lettuce, boiled egg, Javanese mustard, and pickled vegetables. Sangga buwana itself and every component to prepare it have the meaningful philosophy about God’s creations. It delivers important wishes and meanings to the newlywed couple in royal wedding ceremony. It was only served to the sultan, royal family of Yogyakarta, and their important guests. But nowadays, sangga buwana can be more easily found at restaurants, traditional markets or food festivals in Yogyakarta. The cultural preservation of sangga buwana has been conducted through cultural festivals, cooking workshops, and research development using local ingredients to prepare it which may support food diversificationReferences
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Amanto, B. S., Umanailo, M. C. B., Wulandari, R. S., Taufik, T., & Susiati, S. (2019). Local consumption diversification. International Journal of Scientific and Technology Research, 8 (8), 1865–1869.
Army, R. (2017). Kuliner Yogyakarta, Cerita di Balik Nikmatnya (S. Untoro (ed.)). Jakarta: National Agency for Language Development and Books, Ministry of Education and Culture of Indonesia.
Arnold, M., Lawandra, R., Rajagukguk, Y. V., Oktaviani, T., & Emely, E. (2017). Potensi “Sangga Buwana†dengan substitusi tepung sukun sebagai makanan siap saji yang sehat. Nutri-Sains, 1 (1), 1–11. doi: https://dx.doi.org/10.21580/ns.2017.1.1.1130
Budi, N. S., Adrianto, A., Mudijono, Sumarno, & Maharkesti, S. A. (1996). Tradisi Makan dan Minum di Lingkungan Kraton Yogyakarta (N. Kasniyah (ed.)). Yogyakarta: Departemen Pendidikan dan Kebudayaan Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta.
Fatikasari, R. (2019). Indonesia Tempo Dulu Kembali Hadir di Pasar Kangen Yogyakarta. Available online from: https://www.goodnewsfromindonesia.id/2019/07/22/pasar-kangen-yogyakarta [Accessed on June 6, 2021].
FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations). (2012). Traditional foods, nutrition education key to fighting hunger and malnutrition. Available online from: https://www.fao.org/news/story/en/item/159244/icode/ [Accessed on November 4, 2021].
Gardjito, M., Harmayani, E., & Santoso, U. (2019). Makanan Tradisional Indonesia Seri 3 - Makanan Tradisional yang Populer: Menu Sepiring Lengkap dan Makanan Berbasis Buah-Buahan. Yogyakarta: Gadjah Mada University Press.
Gardjito, M., Indrati, R., & Amaliah. (2010). Menu Favorit Para Raja (Victi (ed.)). Yogyakarta: Kanisius.
Gardjito, M., Nindyarani, A. K., Putri, R. G., & Chayatinufus, C. (2017). Kuliner Yogyakarta - Pantas Dikenang Sepanjang Masa (I. Hardiman (ed.)). Jakarta: PT. Gramedia Pustaka Utama.
Gillespie, G., Hilchey, D. L., Hinrichs, C. C., & Feenstra, G. (2007). Farmer’s markets as keystones in rebuilding local and regional food systems. In C. C. Hinrichs & T. A. Lyson (Eds.), Remaking the North American Food System: Strategies for Sustainability (pp. 65–83). Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press.
Handoyo, C. C., Clarissa, Claudia, G., Milka, & Firdayanti, S. A. (2018). Klappertaart: an Indonesian–Dutch influenced traditional food. Journal of Ethnic Foods, 5 (2), 147–152. doi: https://dx.doi.org/ 10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002
Harmayani, E., Anal, A. K., Wichienchot, S., Bhat, R., Gardjito, M., Santoso, U., Siripongvutikorn, S., Puripaatanavong, J., & Payyappallimana, U. (2019a). Healthy food traditions of Asia: Exploratory case studies from Indonesia, Thailand, Malaysia, and Nepal. Journal of Ethnic Foods, 6 (1), 1–18. doi: https://dx.doi.org/10.1186/s42779-019-0002-x
Harmayani, E., Santoso, U., & Gardjito, M. (2019b). Makanan Tradisional Indonesia Seri 1 - Kelompok Makanan Fermentasi dan Makanan yang Populer di Masyarakat. Yogyakarta: Gadjah Mada University Press.
Haruminori, A., Angelia, N., & Purwaningtyas, A. (2017). Makanan etnik Melayu: Tempoyak. Jurnal Antropologi: Isu-Isu Sosial Budaya, 19 (2), 125-128. doi: https://dx.doi.org/10.25077/jaisb.v19.n2.p125-128.2017
Indonesia Kaya. 2021. Keraton Surakarta, Pusat Pemerintahan di Masa Lalu. Available online from: https://indonesiakaya.com/pustaka-indonesia/keraton-surakarta-pusat-pemerintahan-di-masa-lalu/ [Accessed on November 5. 2021].
Karju, K., Utami, H. E., Supriyanto, E. (2017). Penciptaan Tari Bedaya Sangga Buwana. Prosiding: Seni, Teknologi dan Masyarakat, 2.
König, H. J., Schuler, J., Suarma, U., McNeill, D., Imbernon, J., Damayanti, F., Aini, S. D., Uthes, S., Sartohadi, J., Helming, K., & Morris, J. (2010). Assessing the impact of land use policy on urban-rural sustainability using the FoPIA approach in Yogyakarta, Indonesia. Sustainability, 2 (7), 1991–2009. doi: https://dx.doi.org/10.3390/su2071991
Kusumaningtyas, M., & Lestari, S. (2020). Model pengembangan makanan dan pariwisata halal di Indonesia. Media Mahardhika, 19 (1), 44-49. doi: https://dx.doi.org/10.29062/mahardika.v19i1.195
Lestari, L. A., Sari, P. M., & Utami, F. A. (2014). Kandungan Zat Gizi Makanan Khas Yogyakarta. Yogyakarta: Gadjah Mada University Press.
Nurti, Y. (2017). Kajian dalam perspektif antropologi. Jurnal Antropologi: Isu-Isu Sosial Budaya, 19 (1), 1-10. doi: https://dx.doi.org/10.25077/jantro.v19.n1.p1-10.2017
Primarasa. (2017). Songgo Buwhono Sayuran. Available online from: https://www.primarasa.co.id/camilan/songgo-buwhono-sayuran [Accessed on June 6, 2021].
Rahman, F. (2016). Rijsttafel: Budaya Kuliner di Indonesia Masa Kolonial 1870-1942 (C. Hardjono & W. Retna (eds.)). Jakarta: PT. Gramedia Pustaka Utama.
Rajagukguk, Y. V., & Arnold, M. (2021). Tempoyak: Fermented durian paste of Malay ethnic and its functional properties. International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science, 23, 100297. doi: https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2020.100297
Rajagukguk, Y. V., Arnold, M., Oktaviani, T., Emely, & Lawandra, R. (2016). Sangga Buwana - Makanan Priyayi dari Keraton Yogyakarta. Available online from: https://budaya-indonesia.org/Sangga-Buwana-Makanan-Priyayi-dari-Keraton-Yogyakarta [Accessed on November 4, 2021].
Sabana, S. (2007). Nilai estetis pada kemasan makanan tradisional Yogyakarta. ITB Journal of Visual Art and Design, 1(1), 10–25.
Sawitri. (2021). Tari Bedhaya dan Bedhayan: Kajian ideologis dan historis (Andriyanto (ed)). Klaten: Penerbit Lakeisha.
Sholekhudin, M. (2016). Wisata Jajan Yogyakarta. Jakarta: Penerbit Majalah Intisari.
Tastemade Inc. (2020). Songgo Buwono (Egg Benedict Ala Keraton). Available online from: https://id.tastemade.com/videos/songgo-buwono [Accessed on July 1, 2021].
Utami, H. E. (2017). Karya Seni Tari Bedhaya Sangga Buwana. Surakarta: Faculty of Performance Arts, Institut Seni Surakarta.
Widya, K. (2018). Cerita Kehidupan Manusia dalam Menu Songgo Buwono. Available online from: https://www.setneg.go.id/baca/index/cerita_kehidupan_manusia_dalam_menu_songgo_buwono [Accessed on July 1, 2021].
Wijaya, S. (2019). Indonesian food culture mapping: a starter contribution to promote Indonesian culinary tourism. Journal of Ethnic Foods, 6 (9), 1–10. doi: https://dx.doi.org/10.1186/s42779-019-0009-3
Yudhistira, B., & Fatmawati, A. (2020). Diversity of Indonesian soto. Journal of Ethnic Foods, 7 (27), 1–9. doi: https://dx.doi.org/10.1186/s42779-020-00067-z
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2021-12-18
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Arnold, M., & Rajagukguk, Y. V. (2021). Sangga Buwana as Food Acculturation: Yogyakarta Royal Traditional Food. Jurnal Antropologi: Isu-Isu Sosial Budaya, 23(2), 212–221. https://doi.org/10.25077/jantro.v23.n2.p212-221.2021
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